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Make your own camera strap cover!

Friday, August 27, 2010
Tutorial for making your own camera strap cover.
Enjoy crafting at home!

These strap covers are not only cute (how can you resist the ruffle and flower), but they're cushy and have a place to put your lens cover and an extra battery.

What you need: 1/4 yd main fabric, 1/4 yd fabric for ruffle and flower, 1/4 yd lining fabric (optional), yard stick, thread, needle, string (optional), glue gun, and scissors.
 For your ruffle and flower, rip a 2-inch and 1-inch strip down the width of your fabric.  To do this, just cut a little into the edge of your fabric and pull the two pieces apart.  Pull off any stray threads.  Cut these two strips to 38-inches long.  Iron flat.
Main fabric: cut two pieces 26-inches x 3-inches and two pieces 4-inches x 3-inches (for pockets).
Lining fabric: cut two pieces 26-inches x 3-inches.  (Lining is optional, but recommended for adding stability to light-weight fabrics).
For the ruffle you'll take your 2-inch wide strip and fold it down the center (with right sides out) and sew 1/4-inch away from the center fold.
Next, you'll iron the center pleat down flat - this takes patience!
Next, you'll sew a long-basting stitch (for gathering) down the center of your pleat.  IMPORTANT: be sure not to back stitch or you won't be able to pull on our threads to gather!!
Pull on one of the threads on one end and hold onto it firmly while you slide the material down.  Do this for both sides.  You'll want to fit your ruffle (with ends tucked under 1/4-inch) onto one of your main fabric pieces and have it 1 1/4-inches away from each end.  Pin in place along the entire length.
Iron ruffle down flat.  This is fastest and easiest with a steam iron!  Then sew along the center (over your gathering stitch) of your ruffle to tack it in place.
Edge-finish your pockets by sewing across one short end and press down flat 1/2-inch.
Sew across the top to hem.  Place pocket pieces over each other with the top pocket 1/2-inch below the bottom one.  Pin in place.
Flip your pockets over and fold extra fabric on the bottom (from top pocket) over bottom pocket.  Press flat.
Pin pockets on remaining main fabric strip with the bottom of the pockets 1 1/2-inches away from the end.  Stitch across the bottom of the pockets close to the edge.  Baste sides down close to the edge to hold in place.
Layer your strips of fabric: lining, main fabric with ruffle (good side UP), main fabric with pockets (good side DOWN), and then lining. 
With all raw edges even, pin your fabrics together along one long edge.  Sew/serge along this edge 1/4-inch.
Open and pin along shorter ends.  Sew/serge along these edges 1/4-inch.
Fold fabrics back in half and match up remaining raw edge.  Sew/serge along this edge 1/4-inch.
Turn right-side out.  This takes a bit of time but it IS possible.
 Press cover flat.
Fold serged ends inside 1/2-inch and pin in place.
Using a needle and string (or thread), hand-stitch ends down.  I like the string because it's bulky and original looking.
Tie your ends together a few times and trim.
Now for the fun part!
Take your 1-inch strip of material and tie a knot on one end.
You'll create your flower rosette by twisting your strip of material while rolling it around your knot.  Dab it with hot glue every so often to hold it all together.
It's coming together!
Glue the end of your fabric to the bottom.
Isn't it cute!?
Spread hot glue all along the bottom and stick it on over your ruffle!

Antique a Picture Frame

Sunday, July 25, 2010
Antique a picture frame and add 'studs' with this Tutorial!
Enjoy crafting at home!  

 I have my mom to thank for showing me how to antique!

 Materials: Picture frame, ruler, pencil, thumb tacks, hammer, paintbrush or roller, paint, wood stain, gloss paint (optional), and sand paper.

Prepare your frame by taking out the board from the back and glass, and un-screwing any hardware from the back.  Unfortunately for me the glass in this frame was glued so I had to cover it when I painted.

Mark a straight line where you want the studs to go (I did 3/4-inch from the inner edge) and 1-inch dashes along that. 

Press the thumb tacks in over your markings.  I used my thumbs for this although it hurt - it ends up being easier than a hammer.  TIP: Keep your hands under the frame so the pressure you put on it doesn't put any strain on the frame which might cause it to crack or break!

If your son wants to help out - handing the tacks to you one-by-one is fun and safe!  He may want to try and push one in himself!

Once all the tacks are in, lightly tap them with a hammer to push them in flush with the frame.

If you decide you like the frame how it is that's fine, or you can continue...

Paint your frame with two coats of paint.  You can use any kind or color you'd like!

Once your paint is dry you can rough it up with sand paper.  It's hard to ruin a perfectly good paint job, but once you get started it looks REALLY cool!  I like to sand over the studs and all the edges I can get to with the sand block. 

Make sure the frame is free of dust.  Apply a generous amount of stain with an old towel or paper towel.

After about 30-60 seconds you can rub it off.  The stain will color the wood where you sanded as well as color the paint to add an old-antiqued look.  Once the frame is dry you can spray on a clear coat or just leave it how it is!

Have fun!

Tutorial for Making a Pillow Cover that hides your quilts!

Monday, July 5, 2010
 Tutorial for making a 'hide-a-quilt' pillowcase.
Enjoy crafting at home!  

These make great decorative pillows, pillows your kids can jump and play on, or just make it easier to store quilts so they won't unfold.  

What you need: 2 1/4 yard medium weight fabric, 24-inch zipper, fabric marker or chalk, yard stick, thread, and scissors


Cut your fabric to be 30"W x 60"L.  With you fabric marker and ruler, make 6-inch marks along all edges of fabric.  Connect top-right corner with 5th mark down from the top on left side (this makes a 45-degree angle).  Connect top-left corner with 5th mark down from the top on right side.  Connect other lines as necessary to make diamonds.

You're going to sew along your lines** by pinching your fabric so the line is on the edge. 

Sew close to the edge, about 1/8-inch.  
**Do all lines pointing in the same direction first, then the other lines.

 After you sew all your lines, press your fabric.  
TIP: it's easiest if you iron on the wrong side of your fabric. 
 Now fold your fabric in-half lengthwise and trim down to be 26" x 26".  
IMPORTANT: don't trim along your fold!

Zig-zag along all your edges to keep from fraying.

Skip to steps for zipper.


Cut your fabric to be 30"W x 76"L.  With you fabric marker and ruler, make 2-inch marks along long edges of fabric and connect across. 

You're going to sew along your lines by pinching your fabric so the line is on the edge.
Sew along the edges with a 1/4-inch seam.  

 Fold your fabric in-half lengthwise to find your middle pleat.  Mark this.  Iron all pleats TOWARDS the middle pleat. 

With you fabric marker and ruler, make 6-inch marks along short edges of fabric and connect down (perpendicular to pleats).

Sew along perpendicular lines.  These lines keep your pleats down.

Now, fold your fabric in-half lengthwise and trim down to be 26" x 26".  
IMPORTANT: don't trim along your fold!

Zig-zag along all your edges to keep from fraying.

ZIPPER (for both pillows):

With right sides together, pin one edge of your zipper along top (short) end of your  material.

With your zipper foot, sew along pinned edge.  You want to be close to the teeth of the zipper but be sure not to sew on top of them.

With right sides together, pin other edge of your zipper along other top end of your material.

Sew along pinned edge just as before.
TIP: it's easiest to sew this edge with the zipper un-zipped.

With right sides facing up, stitch on material along one side of zipper.

On other side you'll sew on the WRONG side because it's easier to see.  Have edge of material extend past zipper about 1/2-inch and sew along first stitched line - this makes a 'flap' and will hide the zipper once you're all finished.

Test your zipper out to make sure you can zip and un-zip it.  It should look like the picture above.

With your zipper open about 6-inches, put the right-sides of your material together and pin.
IMPORTANT, you'll want the material with the 'flap' on the top side and the entire zipper up on this side as well.  When you flip your material over you shouldn't see your zipper.

Stitch along open-pinned edges with a 5/8-inch seam.
TIP: Be sure not to sew over the teeth of the zipper or you'll probably break a needle!

Turn pillowcase right-side out and enjoy your work!

Fold your quilts and stuff them into your pillowcase!

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