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Customize a baby carrier with NEW fabric choices!

Friday, May 31, 2013
Summer is here and it's time to play outside!!

There's no easier way to get around with a child than to carry them in a Mei Tai carrier!  They're easy to wear, versatile  reversible, super comfortable and one-size-fits-all.  You can wear them with a newborn all the way up to age 3!

Go to my shop and check them out!

HERE'S AN IDEA OF DIFFERENT FABRICS




WAYS YOU CAN WEAR YOUR CARRIER
-on your back-
 -on your front-
-on your hip-

 HOW DO YOU PUT IT ON?  EASY!

 Tie carrier around your waist.
 Hold baby against you.
 Pull carrier up though legs.
 Bring shoulder straps over your shoulders to the back.
 Cross straps and bring to front.
With baby snug against you, tie straps under baby's bum.

FABRIC CHOICES

**I have excellent feedback on every carrier I've sold - check out my shop, here**

Favorite tool of the week - Electric Rotary Cutter

Wednesday, May 29, 2013
I often cut 4 layers of medium to heavy weight fabric at a time and using regular scissors takes a long time, is tedious and can really hurt your hands and give you blisters.

I looked around online for an electric rotary cutter last year.  There are a few out there... some cheap that don't look like they'll last, some mediocre and others that looked like they'd hold up for years.
I ended up buying this cutter online from Rowley Company (you need a business Tax ID # to order).  It was just under $100 and I am extremely happy with it!  It cuts through fabric like butter!  Instead of cutting with scissors for 20 minutes it only takes 5 minutes!

It comes with an extra blade, blade sharpener and carbon brushes for the motor.  You can also buy replacement blades really cheap on their website.

What's something than can make Dani REALLY happy!?

Tuesday, May 28, 2013
I am super giddy right now.  This truck arrived with something special on it just for me!

FABRIC!  I just love fabric!

Yes, I had to pay for it and the white is a little dirty... but it's perfect! 

I bet you're wondering what it is for.  Let me tell you.  Well, I should have prefaced this post by saying it took me a LONG time to decide to order it.  I had planned to close down one of my Etsy shops once I sold off all the product I had in stock (and I am still going to) but I am practically out of strap material for my Mei Tai baby carriers but have nearly a hundred panels pre-cut for the body.  Getting this fabric will prolong the time I have my Etsy shop open but it was a decision I made carefully.  Also, another reason for buying so much fabric is so I can keep my costs down for the group sewing classes I host (the girl's pay me for the project fabric).

There is about 120 yards of black and 80 yards of white.  EEEEK!!

Hanging Chalkboard Wood Shop Class

Sunday, May 26, 2013
I had some friends over for a wood shop class at my house yesterday.  We made some hanging chalkboards and it was a lot of fun!  Girls like to use power tools too!  If you want to make your own chalkboard I have detailed instructions, here.





They measured and cut their boards, made pocket holes and screwed the frame together, added the bottom lip, painted chalkboard paint on their back panel and nailed to the back and screwed on some d-rings and attached a wire for hanging.  Later they can paint and stain as they please.

Make it Yourself - Faux Sink Cabinet

Wednesday, May 15, 2013
We live in student housing.  Not everything is pretty, trust me.  I'm about to show you one of the ugliest-most embarrassing parts of our apartment.  The bathroom... under the sink!

Yikes!  I know!  Oh, you want a close-up...
...here it is!  Pipes and.. what's that?  A nasty hole in the wall?  Sick.

I had a solution!  All I can say now is, "Why didn't I do this sooner!?" This faux sink cabinet adds structure and appeals to the eye.  It pulls away easily for cleaning - and is a great place to hide things you don't want seen (the toilet brush and plunger, perhaps?)! The wood cost less than $15 and I simply stained with Minwax Gray (my fav lately) and put a coat of Poly to protect.

I used 3 4"-wide furring strips, some free 1/4" plywood and a 18" long 2x2 scrap for the back brace and legs in front (the brace and legs keep the "cabinet" 1/2-inch off the ground.  I attached each side frame together with pocket holes using a Kreg Jig, then attached the sides to the front with pocket holes, nailed the plywood on and screwed the legs and back brace on.  Not much to it!

Bread Box Makeover

I grabbed this bread box from the thrift store.  It screamed at me, "Fix me up and make me pretty!"  It's all wood with a glass window that has 1983 printed on it.  It's age was apparent but not any more!

What did I do, exactly, you might ask?
-Took the knob, window, knob and hinges off.
-Sanded all surfaces to bare wood.
-Painted door creme.
-Stained box with Minwax Grey Stain.
-Sanded lightly.  Sanded edges of door to bar wood.  Rubbed grey stain VERY lightly on creme door and edges.
-Painted 2 coats of Polyurethane on all sides.
-Scrubbed hinges with steel wool.
-Cleaned window.
-Added new tabs to hold window (now removes easily for cleaning).










Build your own! Wood Art Organizer with Rope Handle

Thursday, May 2, 2013
My kids love to color but it's always a hassle to find their art supplies because they're never together in the spot they should be.  I had an idea to build an organizer and could finally put it into motion when I found some panel boards by our dumpster - gotta love free wood!



WOOD ORGANIZER BUILDING PLAN

Dimensions: 11.5" wide by 8" tall by 8.5" deep

Materials and Tools Shopping List:
1-in x 20-in x 36-in Panel Board ($15 @ Lowe's)
10-foot piece of 1/4-inch cotton rope
3/8" drill bit
1 1/4" brad nails (for nail gun) or finish nails (use hammer)
Wood Glue
Wood Filler
Stain or Paint
Polyurethane (I prefer Satin or Semi-Gloss)
1 1/2" paint brush

Tools:
Measuring Tape
Pencil
Safety Glasses
Table Saw
Drill
Nail Gun or Hammer
Sander

Cut List: (width x height)
2 - 8 1/2 x 8 - inches (ends)
4 - 10 x 4 1/2 - inches (sides and dividers)
3 - 2 x 3 3/4 - inches (small dividers)
1 - 10 x 7 - inches (bottom)
9-foot piece of 7/32" rope


General Instructions:
I advise you to read through entire plan before beginning. Take precautions to build safely. Always use straight boards. Work on a flat-level surface. Use glue with finish nails for a strong hold. Wipe excess glue off bare wood for stained projects. Ask for help if you need it and have FUN!

TIP: One of the biggest tips I received lately for ensuring accurate cuts is to measure from the fence on your table saw to the side of your blade for your cutting distance.  Don't rely on the printed measurements on your table saw for accurate cuts.

Step 1 - now that your boards are cut it's time to make some marks with your measuring tape and pencil.

On both end pieces measure and mark 4.5" front the bottom corners, then 3" inward from the top corners.  Connect both marks for your cut line.  For the handle holes, measure and mark 1" down from the center of your pieces.

For your side and divider pieces you'll be marking on the top edge (diagram shows large flat surface).  For 2 of your pieces measure and mark 5" from one end.  For your remaining 2 pieces, measure and mark 3 1/4" from each end.

Step 2 - cut the marked corners off your end pieces that were marked in Step 1.  With your drill and 3/8" drill bit, drill a hole in your end pieces centered over the 1" mark from Step 1.

Step 3 - sand all surfaces and dull sharp corners.


Step 4 - set all your pieces up and double check everything fits and looks good.  Your small divider pieces should be aligned with the marks on your side and divider pieces you made in Step 1.

Step 5 (*see tip below)- now it's time to attach your small divider pieces to their corresponding side and large divider piece.  You'll attach the pieces together that have just one small divider piece first so we can use the small divider pieces from the other side to help support our boards while we glue and staple (you will not glue and staple these - they're just to help space your boards while you attach the small middle divider).  You'll want your bottom piece under your work since the large divider piece is staggered from the side piece.

Glue both long edges of your small divider piece and align with your center markings on side and large divider piece.  I used my end pieces to smash everything together and make sure everything was square, carefully remove end pieces and hold everything securely with one hand (or you can clamp) while I put a few nails through the side boards into the small divider.  Make sure as best you can that they are centered because you don't want to miss the small divider and have nails poking through.  If you are not using a nail gun and don't have clamps you'll need someone to hold everything together while you hammer nails in.

*TIP: When using a nail gun, you need to have the nails going in with the grain!  See in the above picture how the lines (grain) of my wood are and my nail gun is angled?  This is right.  If I turned my nail gun upright my nails would be cutting across the grain and not go straight through to the small divider piece, but would instead go off to the side. Pulling these finish nails out is not fun!
Okay, now you can do the other pieces for your other side just like you did for the first side.  Remember to glue the long sides of the small dividers and align everything by sandwiching them between your end pieces.  For this side I tried clamping to see if it was easier.  It was a little easier but not necessary if you can hold everything together tightly.

Step 6 - you finished your divider pieces and now it's time to glue and nail the ends on.

Glue the ends of your divider pieces but not the bottom piece!  We'll do the bottom piece at the very end.

Get the ends clamped on (or have someone hold everything tight).  Make sure everything is aligned and square.  You should out 3-4 nails through each board.  Look carefully from the top to see that your nails are aligned through the boards before you put them through.  It is nearly impossible to pull them out at this point!

Step 7- pull out your bottom (is shouldn't be glued or nailed at this point) and turn your organizer upside down.

Glue the bottoms of all your divider pieces and glue around the edges of your bottom piece.

Place your bottom piece in and clamp if you want.  Nail around the outer edge.

I put a nail through each small divider piece.  It can be tricky getting them in the right spot - I did this by looking on the side where I had nailed them in.

Step 8 - wood fill all your nail holes.  I also did the creases between the boards around my bottom piece.

Step 9 - when your wood filler is dry sand it down so everything is smooth.  Remove any dust for painting/staining.

Step 10 - Paint or stain your organizer.  I used Minwax Gray stain.  I love it!  (I purposely left some areas bare for a worn look).  Sand lightly and wipe off surface for clear coat.

Step 11 - Brush on a nice layer of Polyurethane.  It is difficult to get inside the cubby holes but it is worth it!  The poly goes on milky but dries super clear.  I did one coat, lightly sanded and put on a 2nd coat.  The last coat makes a big difference!

Step 12 - last step (and the most fun!).  Let's make the rope handle!

Put your rope end through both holes making a full circle 2 times around.  Make sure you have a 5-foot long tail on the end you pulled through to make your coils.

Tie a knot close to the end.  Your other end will get caught inside the coils - don't worry!

Wrap your long tail end around the main handle, catching in the loose end.

Coil your rope all the way to the other end and tie a knot (the same distance as the other side knot).  Pull super tight!

Cut any extra rope off.  You may want to add some dabs of super glue or hot glue just to ensure it doesn't come loose.


Now fill with all sorts of supplies!  My kids LOVE this organizer!

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