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Farmhouse Style Queen Headboard

Monday, November 9, 2015

While visiting my family in Utah my mom was trying to decide how to make the guest room look better.  I immediately told her "I'll make you a headboard!"  I've had my eye on the farmhouse style bed plan from the Ana White website and was excited to try it out.  I didn't make the whole bed frame, plus I made a few tweaks of my own and will highlight them below.  For the wood I spent about $65 and another $40 for Stain and Polyurethane.

**This plan is for a QUEEN headboard**

Shopping List:
(1) 4x4x8' post
(4) 1x6x8' tongue & groove boards
(4) 1x4x8'
(1) 2x4x8'
(1) 2x6x8'
(14) 5-1/2" lag bolts
3/4"-diamater dowel
(28) 2" Screws
(48) 1-1/4" Finish Nails
Wood Glue and Brush
Wood Finishing Products of Choosing

Tools:
Miter Saw
Sander & Various Grit Papers
Drill (+ Bits) & Impact Driver
Square
Socket (fits lag bolts)
Flush Cutting Saw
Rags & Fine-Bristled Brush

Cut List:
(2) 4x4 @ 48" (6" shorter than plan) - POSTS
(12) 1x6 TG @ 30" - PANEL BOARDS
(4) 1x4 @ 60" - PANEL TRIM
(1) 2x4 @ 67" (cut last) - TOP OF PANEL/POSTS
(1) 2x6 @ 69" (cut last) - TOP OF HEADBOARD
(2) 2x4 @ 8" - BLOCKS FOR ATTACHING BEDFRAME

After cutting your wood, sand everything with 100, 120 & 150 grit paper. Layout your TG boards to create your panel.  Once they are together, each board has a finished measurement of 5" wide.  You will need to cut the tongue off the last board using a table saw.

 I used glue and finish nails to attach the trim to the top and bottom of the panel boards.  I did 2 nails in each TG board end.  TIP: Use a square to make sure you are putting the trim square with the panel!

Next, flip panel over and use 2" screws (pre-drill holes) to attach the other trim boards on the top and bottom (make sure they match up with the trim pieces on the other side).

I used scrap 1" board pieces to put under the sides of my panel to raise it up so it is centered with the posts.  Once it's centered and the post is where it needs to be, mark where to screw your lag bolts (through the post and into the panel).  I did a lag bolt through the top and bottom of panel and the center for a total of 6.  I first drilled out the recessed hole needed for the lag head with the forstner bit (about 3/4" deep) and then used a 1/4" bit in the center for the rest of the lag screw.  To get through the 4x4 post and part of the panel you will need a LONG 1/4" bit!  Use your impact driver with a socket attachment to drill the bolts in.

Once your posts are attached it's time to measure the top for the 2x4 and 2x6!  You want the 2x4 to be an exact measurement of the top and the 2x6 to be 2" longer.  Once they're cut sand with 100, 120 & 150 grit papers.  Clamp 2x4 in place and use a few 2" screws to hold in place.  Center 2x6 over the top and clamp in place.  Do the same process with the forstner bit & 1/4" bit like you did for the posts to attach the 2x6.  I did 4 lag bolts total for the top.  Use your impact driver with a socket attachment to drill the bolts in.

 Next cut 10 2" long pieces from your dowel.  To plug your holes, use a small brush with glue to butter the holes and end of dowel.  Tap in place; let dry.

While you're waiting for your plugs to dry you can work on the blocks for attaching your bed frame!  To do this, measure the distance from the floor to the top & bottom of the metal bracket on your bed frame.  You'll want to center your 8" wood block on your post according to your measurements.  For instance, the metal frame bracket measured 5" from the bottom edge to the floor and 10" from the top edge to the bottom floor.  That means I measured 8-1/2" up from the bottom of my posts and centered my 8" blocks over that.  TIP: You'll want your blocks to be flush with the front side of your posts (my bed frame metal brackets overlapped the posts and brackets).  I used the same process with the forstner bit, 1/4" bit and lag bolts to attach the blocks... using 2 bolts on each block.  I didn't plug the holes incase we needed to move the blocks for whatever reason.


 Now that your plugs are dry you can use a flush cutting saw to cut them away and sand smooth!


Remove dust to prepare for finishing!

Because my posts were Douglas Fur and the rest pine, I was worried about the woods taking the stain differently and first did a coat of seal-a-cell.  However, looking back I think I could have saved $20 and gone without this step.  Since the General Finishes Gel Stain mostly sits on the surface without penetrating the wood it probably would have turned out just fine!


This is the product I used.

 Here's the first coat...

 ...and here's the second coat.


I left it to dry until the next day and did 2 coats of Polycrylic (sanding with 320 grit in between coats).

 We held the headboard up to the metal bedframe and marked 2 spots on each bracket where we could attach bolts.  We drilled holes through the wooden blocks and used bolts/nuts to secure.

 It adds so much warmth & character to the room!  I love it!
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